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This kit includes all the treatments you need to perform a prophylactic treatment for ornamental fish to clean them from the most common fish parasites.
Proven treatment
A treatment protocol has been developed and was tested on Discus fish in a trial that included 1500 discus fish from 11 farms across three countries. Samples were taken prior the treatment and lab tested to confirm multiple parasite infestation in addition to bacteriology test. The treatment protocol included with this kit has been proven to free Discus fish from Dactylogyrus (flukes), Cestoda (tapeworm), Capillaria (nematode worm), Costia, Trichodina, Oodinium and Columnaris. It also significantly reduces the population of intestinal flagellates, which increase under stress, in turn reduce
the fish appetite or refuse food darken body, cause lethargy and white feces.

Treatment scope
Bacteria
Aeromonas salmonicida (Furunculosis)
Flexibacter maritimus (Marine columnaris)
Flavobacterium branchiophilum (BGD)
Flavobacterium columnaris (Columnaris)
Vibrio anguillarum (Vibriosis)
Vibrio harveyi
Viruses
Hemorrhagic septicemia virus
Fungi
Saprolegnia
Parasites
Gyrodactylus salaris
Ichthyobodo necator (Costia)
Ichthyophthirius multifilis (White spot)
Neoparamoeba pemaquidensis (Amoebic Gill Disease)
Trematodes
Nematodes (capillaria, Camallanus, discus maggot ...etc.)
Cestodes
Hexamita
QT kit PRO contents:
Bactocide 1 x 20g (Ingredient: Usnea lichen extract, Terminalia catappa extract, Gingerols, Echinacea pupurea extract)
WORMER X x 20g (Ingredient: Levamisole HCL )
FLUKE X x 20g (Ingredient: (RS)-2-(Cyclohexylcarbonyl)-1,2,3,6,7,11b-hexahydro-4H-pyrazino[2,1- a]isoquinolin-4-one)
Chloramine-T x 20g (Ingredient: Chloramine-T)
INFO: This product is for use on Aquarium ornamental fish only. Store in a cool dry place away from the reach of children. 

Treatment procedure:

Caution! To achieve the results we promise the instructions should be followed exactly without any modifications. Any change in the program could result in incomplete eradication of parasites or incomplete treatment of diseases. Before you start: a. It is always recommended to treat new fish in hospital tanks. Ideally a hospital tank will have only an air stone to supply air and a heater to control temperature (30-32 C during QT is highly recommended).

A sponge filter or any other type of filter is not required because large water changes will need to be performed.

B. If your aquariums are not new and previously had fish it is recommended to sterilize them. The most economical method is to use household bleach* at 50ml/100L of aquarium water for 24 hours. After that empty out the water and rinse the aquarium well and remove the rinsing water. Fill back the aquarium and add an aquarium water conditioner at a normal dose. Make sure there is no smell of residual chlorine. Complete this procedure at least 24-48 hours before the day of adding the new fish.

WARNING: After sterilization with bleach, you should remove all the water and rinse the aquarium well before refilling it back again. Not removing all traces of chlorine before adding new fish will cause death or severe damage to your fish. If the aquarium has any filter media or substrate that may trap the chlorine and release it back again in the new water!

 Day 1:

A. On the first day of receiving your new fish, the first step will be to perform a 4hrs Chloramine-T bath in external container before adding them to the aquarium.

B.  Prepare containers with 20-30 Liters of water (you can use the Styrofoam box the fish were shipped in or a plastic tub) with air stones in them -we will call this water bath-. Let the fish bags equalize to the room temperature so that the temperature in the prepared water baths is equal to the bags. Open the fish bags that the fish were shipped in and immediately take out the fish (without the shipping water) tothe receiving water bath.

C. Prepare a stock solution of Chloramine-T and add the correct dose to the water bath depending on your pH and water hardness. Please follow instructions in the Chloramine-T data sheet.

D. Monitor, the fish carefully through the 4 hours, normally the fish should be relaxed. If any sign of excessive stress or the fish looks restless, transfer it to the aquarium. After 4 hours have passed, transfer the fish to their aquariums.

E. After transferring all the fish to the aquarium add Bactocide 1(for dosage refer to Bactocideinstructions)Hint: it is beneficial to add salt at 1g/L to enhance osmotic balance and elevate stress in the fish during first 7 days.

Day 2:

After 24 hours have passed, since adding Bactocide, Make a 70-100% water change and repeat the dose. Hint: You can make the water change every 48 hours instead of 24hrs by adding a suitable water treatment product that will protect the fish from ammonia.

A dose that will neutralize up to 1 mg/L ammonia is recommended.

Day 8: Perform a 100% water change.

Day 9: Stop feeding and Add FLUKE X and WORMER X according to instruction on each productFLUKE X and WORMER X do not need water change to work, however, the water needs to be changed to keep it clean in absence of Bio-filtration. To remain safe use a product like ChloramX or Safe to neutralize ammonia. Hint: Like with Bactocide if you are using a product to neutralize ammonia you can extend the water change to 48h instead of every 24h.

Note: even if you had bio-filter active its effect will be reduced or eliminated after using Bactocide.

Day 11: Perform a 100% water change and re-dose only Fluke X and stop adding WormerX ( Please pay attention to your ammonia levels and conduct large water changes if needed).  

Day 16: Stop adding FLUKE X and end treatment with a water change.

NOTE: By now you have completed the first round of deworming for both nematodes and tapeworms, However, these parasites produce eggs that are not affected by the medicine (And in some cases flukes that were shielded in the first round) and will re-infest the fish when they hatch in another week. Therefore, it is very important to repeat the treatment again on Day 24.

Day 24: Add FLUKE X and WORMER X according to instruction on each product.

Day 26: Perform a 100% water change and re-dose only Fluke X and stop adding Wormer X

Day 31: Stop adding FLUKE X and end treatment with a water change.

Congratulations!

By now, your fish are free from flukes and nematodes. You can enjoy keeping healthy fish that grow and breed happily, fish that will not fall easily to disease because they are not made weak byparasites.

INFO: This product is for use on Aquarium ornamental fish only.

Please note that the description may have been updated since this product description was created. Therefore, it is important to always follow the dosing instructions that comes with the product.

The red cap oranda goldfish is a fresh water fish of the Cyprinidae family. These fish are a product of selective breeding and are closely related to the common goldfish

Elevate your discus game with our Red Checkerboard! Made with a bright red design, this discus will not only stand out but also help you improve your throws. Perfect for both beginners and experienced throwers. Take your performance to the next level with our top-notch discus.
The Checkerboard Discus is a relatively new color of the wild South American Discus, being a brilliant green coloration with red patterning. The overall coloration of Discus will vary depending on mood and overall health of the fish. Discus are among the most popular aquarium fish.

Discus originate from a habitat of shaded water with branches and other dense cover and this habitat should be duplicated in the aquarium. High quality water conditions (warm, soft, acidic) must be maintained.

Becoming slightly territorial when breeding, it is best to breed an established pair, or maintain a group of young Discus and allow them to pair themselves. Warm, soft, slightly acidic water is required for spawning. The pair will clean a flat surface (usually a broad leaf or the side of the aquarium) prior to spawning. The parents must not be removed from the fry; the fry feed on their parents' mucus.

Largely carnivorous, Symphysodon spp. prefers freeze-dried bloodworms and tubifex, pellet food designed for discus, high-quality flake food, and meaty frozen foods.

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RED COVER/Rose red discus fall into the same family as the Fiamma Rossa, Virgin Red, Marlboro Red and San Merah discus. These fish have Alenquer genetics, and the shade of their red is more brown or darker red in color than their other red discus counterparts. 

 Red cover blue rim fall into the same family as the Fiamma Rossa, Virgin Red, Marlboro Red, and San Merah discus. This fish is a very rare and special fish, only couple out of a batch of this strain have the blue rim. The breeder said every 100 fishes, he only able to get 1 blue rim, and the shade of their red is more brown in color than their other red discus counterparts.

Red devil angelfish is a distinctive and rare line bred form of the common Angel (Pterophyllum scalare), the Red Devil or Super Red Angel is a popular variant due to its vibrant deep red coloration. Like all angels, they do best in a large, tall, planted aquarium with plenty of cover. As a cichlid, they can be moderately aggressive towards one another (especially as adults) but generally do well in a large enough group, usually 5 or more. Most other non-cichlid tankmates will be left alone but they will hunt and eat very small fish or invertebrates. Angels are somewhat sensitive to water quality so care should be taken to avoid large fluctuations in water conditions and partial water changes should be performed regularly.

The Red Dragon BDS is one of many unique color variety of Poecilia reticulata guppy developed through years of careful, selective breeding. This brilliantly colored fish showcases a stunning jewel-like dragon in red coloration, making it a coveted addition for guppy aficionados or any freshwater aquarium enthusiast specially with big dorsal .

The Red Dragon BDS requires an aquarium of at least 20 gallons in size. It is a very peaceful fish and should be housed with tank mates of similar temperament. Though the Red Dragon is a hardy fish tolerant of small changes in water parameters, care should be taken to keep water temperature, pH, and nutrient levels in check. This hardy and energetic fish makes an excellent fish for beginning hobbyists.

Guppies are relatively easy to breed even for the beginning aquarists. If you are interested in breeding guppies, the ideal aquarium should have a covering of floating plants and a breeding box to protect the fry. Adults may eat the fry if left to fend for themselves without the breeding box. The fry should be fed brine shrimp, micro food and pulverized flakes.

The Red Dragon BDS is an omnivore and requires both algae-based foods as well as meaty foods. An algae-based flake food, along with freeze-dried bloodworms, tubifex, and brine shrimp will provide guppies with the proper nutrition.

Be one of the few to own a colony of these beautiful bright cichlids. These are not very common cichlids to see in this trade. Yes, they really get this red, the photo has not been enhanced. The Strawberry Peacock Cichlid originates from the Southern part of Lake Malawi and is a semi-aggressive omnivore. Provide about 3 to 5 females to every male in this species. The females have less color than males, as do all peaacocks. Females will hold eggs in her mouth (mouth-brood) for about 8-12 days. Their aquarium should be well-aquascaped with plenty of rocks to provide breeding grounds, hiding places, and to create territories. This species is simple to keep, and breed, but appropriate levels of salt and trace elements should be added to the aquarium to promote proper health.

• Water temperature ( 26-28C ~ 78-82F )
• Water PH : 6.7-7.8 
• Water Hardness(TDS) : 200-300
• Ammonia : 0 ppm - Nitrites : 0 ppm - Nitrates  : Maximum 10 ppm

The red EAGLE discus has a body that sports a checkerboard design with solid irregularly shaped red lines imprinted on the body's white backgrounds. The overall coloration of Discus will vary depending on mood and overall health of the fish. Discus are among the most popular aquarium fish.

Discus originate from a habitat of shaded water with branches and other dense cover and this habitat should be duplicated in the aquarium. High quality water conditions (warm, soft, acidic) must be maintained.

Becoming slightly territorial when breeding, it is best to breed an established pair, or maintain a group of young Discus and allow them to pair themselves. Warm, soft, slightly acidic water is required for spawning. The pair will clean a flat surface (usually a broad leaf or the side of the aquarium) prior to spawning. The parents must not be removed from the fry; the fry feed on their parents' mucus.

Largely carnivorous, Symphysodon spp. prefers freeze-dried bloodworms and tubifex, pellet food designed for discus, high-quality flake food, and meaty frozen foods.

A truly beautiful hybrid. The result of crossing a male Red Empress with a female OB Peacock and then back crossing with a Red Empress. It's hard to find an OB with such a myriad of colors: Red, yellow and blue. A beautiful and popular hybrid! 

• Temperament:  Mild to moderately aggressive.
• Compatibility:  Keep with other Peacocks and Haps of a similar size. Avoid keeping with Mbunas.
• Suggested Diet:  SRC Hi-Intensity color food to promote color development.